Category Sweden

A self-guided tunnelbana art ride: 100 of 110 stations decorated, the 1957 percent-for-art vote that funded them, and ten stations that go beyond the standard top-three list.

The Norrlandstaget is the overnight sleeper from Stockholm Central to Kiruna, Abisko and Narvik. Cabin classes, the 1898-1903 Iron Ore Line history, when to book, and the dawn approach across the Arctic Circle.

The 37-minute Øresundståg from Copenhagen lands you in Sweden's third city, where the falafel beats the Danish version and the Western Harbour rewards a second night. The bridge-aware Malmö guide.

Visby is the most complete medieval Hanseatic city wall in northern Europe, the rest of Gotland is the rauk-stack island Bergman lived on, and 1361 is the year that explains both. A practical guide to the Swedish Baltic island, with ferry, hotels, Medieval Week and Fårö.

Gothenburg is Sweden's second city: cheaper than Stockholm, slower, and home to the country's best seafood. The 1874 Feskekörka fish market, the southern archipelago for the price of a tram ticket, Haga's cinnamon buns, the Volvo and shipbuilding thread, and where to actually stay and eat.

The Skansen-Stortorget-Kungsträdgården walk-through, the Lucia date that earns the trip, real glögg, real julbord, and a Stena Line winter ferry into Gothenburg or Karlskrona for the slow way in.

How to walk Söder properly: starting at Hornstull, ending past Nytorget. Liljeholmsbron, Skinnarviksberget, Fotografiska, the Hornstulls strand market caveat, and where to actually eat.

Most three-day Stockholm itineraries spend almost two days on Gamla Stan. They are the trap. The version for someone who has done the major European capitals, mixing the medieval core with second-language districts, told properly.